THE PLACES & PEOPLE OF THE VESTERALEN ARCHIPELAGO

Vesteralen, the lesser known archipelago sitting just above the Lofoten Islands, has the great advantage of being just that - lesser known. Passengers on the Hurtigruten will have heard of it because the ships dock at Stokmarknes and Sortland but apart from them most people would go 'where' if you asked. At Andoy, the very tip of the archipelago, ships steam out over the Bleik Ocean Canyon which is the feeding ground for giant sperm whales and the spy hopping Orcas. At Stave, the  white crescent sand beach sheltered from the northerlies and ocean mists, is the spot to unwind from the day in a secret beach sauna. The fishing boat Laura chugs out to Bleiksoya home to thousands of Puffins with their characteristic rainbow coloured beaks.

At Ringstad Sjohus, Ian takes you out in a high speed rib to spot for white tailed eagles whilst Ann Karina turns out some of the best fish soup on the planet. Laila Inga multi tasks as a reindeer herder, mother and Sami chanteuse whose Joiks give Sofia Jannock a run for her money. Bjorn Utsol has been a contestant in the Finnmarkslopet so may times he's lost count but never loses count of his beloved dogs. In Sortland there's Harald, patron and owner of the wonderfully retro Sortland Hotel; Greta and Espen who look after you from the moment you arrive to the day you leave. Meet some or all of them this winter.